Just desserts for Niall McKenna
Posted: 30 June '10 by Niall and Kelly
Chef Niall McKenna at James Street South
There are times when you taste something so good that it becomes an event. You just know that it’s special and you’ll be reminiscing about it in years to come. That’s what this was – on Tuesday 29 June 2010 we tasted Chef Niall McKenna’s Poached Rhubarb and Strawberry Jelly with Yellowman and Lavender Ice-cream. It’s a date we’ll remember.
Kelly and I had been invited to a lunch at James Street South to celebrate Niall’s recent success in The Great British Menu. For those not in the know, Niall not only won the Northern Ireland heat of the competition, but his dessert beat all-comers from across the UK to win it’s place at a banquet attended by Prince Charles. To say that we were looking forward to this is an understatement.
With only 25 other people there we got the chance for a good chat with Niall and his wife Joanne, and two nicer, more unassuming people you couldn’t hope to meet. Even as dedicated food-lovers, it was a bit intimidating to talk to Niall – the man clearly lives for food, and his knowledge and enthusiasm seems to know no bounds. Sipping our champers, I think Kelly and I would have been happy if that was our lot – talking with our two hosts about restaurants, the quality of ingredients, the pressure of cooking during The Great British Menu, and anything else that sprang to mind – but in too short a time it was over and the time to eat was upon us.
Now, don’t get me wrong, I’m not glossing over the starter and main course because of any shortcomings: quite the contrary, they were exceptional. The lobster, langoustine and scallop in the starter were sweet and meaty, and complimented perfectly by cucumber and a light sea-weed butter. The main of Shorthorn Beef was tender and perfectly moist, served with sweet little roasted onions and broadbeans and breadcrumbed bone marrow.. Oh, it was so unctious and just exploded with juicy goodness – it has to be one of my favourite things to see on a menu.
Even taking these highlights into account though, the celebrated dessert simply stole the show.
Chef McKenna had joked that it was only jelly and ice-cream, but if that’s the case it’s the best jelly and ice-cream you’ll ever taste. The strawberry jelly was sweet and sharp without over-powering the poached rhubarb – the lavender ice-cream was marvellously delicate and subtle, and a wonderful background flavour as I crunched through the delicate tuile and the Yellowman dust that encrusted the ice-cream. All the flavours seemed so perfectly balanced – a dish that was just full of the best things of Summer. At the first mouthful our table of 8 people slipped into silence – just before a chorus of synchronised moans and the rattle of cutlery on china that comes with some serious tucking-in.
The fact that a local chef and a local restaurant can deliver this sort of quality speaks volumes about the changing food-scene in Northern Ireland – and places Niall McKenna at the very top of his profession.
What made the whole meal even more enjoyable was the knowledge that the ingredients were locally-sourced: from the milk from Glastry in County Down, to the strawberries from Armagh, to the honey from the grounds of Malone Golf Club. We were lucky enough to have Joanne seated at our table and she talked passionately about the importance of fresh, quality ingredients and the need to support our local producers – and after such a fine lunch there certainly wasn’t any disagreement from the diners!
Thanks and congratulations once again to Niall and Joanne McKenna – as we walked out of their restaurant Kelly and I were talking about returning as soon as possible to get our strawberry jelly fix. I can see a new favourite topping our list of the best local restaurants..
Other information
James Street South
21 James Street South,
Belfast
BT2 7GA
Northern Ireland
T: 028 90434310
E: info@jamesstreetsouth.co.uk
W: www.jamesstreetsouth.co.uk
You can follow James Street South on Facebook
You can also find James Street South on Google Maps.
The good news is that Niall is serving these dishes (and more) in his restaurant so you can enjoy the taste of the Great British Menu – you can click here to see the Great British Menu at James Street South.
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