Catherine's Italian Kitchen, written by Catherine Fulvio

We’ve lots of cookbooks – too many to be useful, really – so we’ve had to become very strict about adding new books to our groaning shelves.

When I saw Catherine’s Italian Kitchen, though, I didn’t hesitate.

Catherine’s first cookery book follows on the heels on her successful RTE TV series of the same name, in which she travels around Italy, enthusiastically sampling the local produce, enjoying the local culture, and finding out what the Italians actually cook for themselves.

What’s in the book

The 224 page book is divided into 9 sections, including: Antipasta; Bread and Pizzas; Gnocchi, Polenta, Risotto and Pasta; Poultry and Game; Sauces; and Desserts (Kelly’s favourite).

Whenever we get a new cookbook, I usually like to sit down and flick through the book, seeing what really jumps out to me, dishes that are crying out to be tried. The photographs are what catch my eye during this first skim-through, much more than the recipes themselves – the better the shots, the more I feel I’ll use the book. Although these photos are de rigeur for any cookbook these days, I really do like the food-photography in this cookbook. It’s vibrant and engaging, the shots are well framed, and the food just looks fantastic. There’s also a few photos of the (typically gnarled and sun-browned) locals to give you a feel for the location.

The recipes are just as interesting, a really wide variety of dishes for every aspect of your Italian menu, all of which are accessible to the home cook. And this is the important point – although very traditional Italian cookbooks are a great read, it’s frustrating when you simply can’t get the ingredients, or they rely on some exotic implements to make the dish. Catherine runs a cookery school, and this shines through Catherine’s Italian Kitchen: she has thought about her audience, and made sure that the majority of the ingredients are easy to find in any large supermarket, with the rest available through good, well-stocked specialty stores.

That’s not to say that the recipes aren’t authentic – I don’t think Catherine’s Sicilian in-laws would allow it!

The details:

• Title: Catherine’s Italian Kitchen
• Author: Catherine Fulvio
• Pages: 224
• Publisher: Gill & Macmillan
• ISBN: 978-0717148066
• Cost: RRP. £17.99 Paperback (now £11.69 on Amazon)
• Where to get it: From www.amazon.co.uk

Our verdict

We really enjoyed the TV series, and the friendly, easy-going style which Catherine brought to the programme is just as obvious in the cookbook.

The food photography is good enough to make your mouth water, which makes the accessible, easy-to-source recipes all the better.

It’s difficult to choose between the recipes, but of the ones we’ve cooked ourselves, three stand out: the Rosemary Focaccia; the Char-grilled Squid with Chillies and Aubergine ; and the Limoncello, White Chocolate and Cherry Semifreddo. I’ve also had my eye on the Roman Chianino Beef Fillet with Chestnut Mushroom and Chianti sauce, and the Lemon Granita. Italian food heaven.

There’s even a recipe to make your own Limoncello, the Neapolitan lemon liqueur – it just doesn’t get better than that!

Find out more about Catherine Fulvio

Catherine has a website which will keep you up to date with everything that’s happening. You can find it at http://catherinefulvio.com.

Catherine also runs the Ballyknocken Cookery School in County Wicklow.

Nigel Slater's autobiography Toast

The first World Book Night took place on 5 March 2011 and we were one of the lucky ones – we were selected to give away copies of Nigel Slater’s autobiography, “Toast: The story of a boy’s hunger”.

Not all went as planned, though. The 5th of March came and went, and there was no sign of our books. Weeks passed, and they still hadn’t arrived.

Cue much wailing, gnashing of teeth, and phone-calls to the organisers.

Well, they do say that good things come to those that wait, and we finally got our books – and you can get yours too.

Toast – a short review

This is Nigel Slater as you’ve never seen him before. Gone is the successful columnist, the polished TV cook – this is Nigel laid bare, his childhood and adolescence described in frank and unsentimental detail.

The writing-style is energetic and engaging, capturing the terrible honesty, wanton cruelty, and petty selfishness of childhood. There’s nothing contrived about this – the big events in his young life are told as he remembers them, with the feelings as he remembers them, no matter how embarassing or delicate the subject.

Any sentiment or nostalgia is reserved for food. I really enjoyed the way Nigel can evoke the atmosphere of the Sixties, an innocent time as far as food was concerned: the discovery of spaghetti and powdered parmesan in a tin; the joy of finding out that there was trifle, or eskimo roll, or Angel Delight for dessert; the socially-defining when his Mum made grilled grapefruit, which he bragged about at school the next day. Although I grew up a decade later, it really resonated with me.

There are big emotions in this book: loneliness, anger, loss, love and humour.

I finished “Toast” in two days.

Get your own copy

We have 45 copies of the autobiography to give away, and we’re doing that in two ways:

1. Using BookCrossing.com: BookCrossing is a great site – you register your books, add a sticker inside the front cover, say where you’re leaving them, and hope for the best! We’ve released 6 copies of “Toast” around Belfast so, if you see a copy lying in an unlikely spot somewhere around Belfast (like the Europa bus station or Caffe Nero on College Street), you should pick it up, take it home, and enjoy a good read. We’d love to hear if you’ve managed to track one down – just follow the instructions on the label and become part of the chain; and
2. Give-away to Chilli & Chocolate members: if you go to the members’ section you’ll find out how to claim your free copy.

The label from BookCrossing.com inside our books

World Book Night 2011

The big idea behind World Book Night is to encourage people to read more, and to share that experience with others. The first event, held on 5th March 2011, saw 20,000 people like ourselves give away 1 million books – 40,000 copies of 25 titles. Events were held around the country: from nearly 10,000 people in Trafalgar Square to smaller gatherings in hundreds of libraries, bookshops, arts venues, coffee shops and homes.

The next World Book Night is on 23rd April, 2012.

Other information

You can find out more about World Book Night 2012 by visiting www.worldbooknight.org.

We love the idea behind BookCrossing – visit the site and see if you can track down some travelling books! www.bookcrossing.com.

The Yellow Door: Our story, our recipes - by Simon Dougan

The Yellow Door is a local success story: delis, pop-up restaurants, outside catering, and bakery-stalls at local markets are all part of the growing business.

The man behind it all is Simon Dougan, a chef from South Armagh who worked in London before returning to Northern Ireland and opening the first Yellow Door deli in Portadown, in 1998.

Over the years, the success of The Yellow Door has lead to television and newspaper coverage, and has made Simon as one of the “big names” in Nothern Irish cooking. Despite this fame, as Kelly and I recently found out, Simon’s original philosophy remains very much at the heart of the business – a dedication to “gutsy, flavoursome, honest food”. I think you could also add “value” and “ethical” to that list.

As an obviously passionate lover of food, Simon not only enjoys cooking and eating but, like many foodies, he also clearly takes great pleasure in sharing – what excites him about food, his knowledge, and his principles. To this end he’s written The Yellow Door: Our story, our recipes.

What’s in the book

At 208 pages, the book is pretty sizeable, and none of it’s “filler”.

The preface includes a single page entitled “Using this book”, but what a page. With simple and direct advise, Simon lets you know what’s important to him, and by extension what his book is all about:

• Always use free-range eggs
• Go for free-range meat, too – and organic, if you can find it
• I would urge you to grow your own (fresh herbs)
• Buy local, seasonal ingredients, and remember to support your local suppliers

All good, sensible stuff.

The recipes are divided into very useful sections too: Breakfasts; Deli Favourites; First Courses; Main Courses; The End of the Meal; and Parties. I honestly can’t think of any domestic cooking-situation that hasn’t been covered!

Just like The Yellow Door, the book gives that little bit more. I’ve always found it difficult to source ingredients, or to find suppliers who are genuinely and thoroughly good. The “Directory” chapter is a clever addition in this regard, providing a tried-and-trusted list of Simon’s favourite suppliers, delis and specialty food shops. Invaluable.

The details

• Title: The Yellow Door: Our story, our recipes
• Author: Simon Dougan
• Pages: 208
• Publisher: Blackstaff Press Ltd
• ISBN: 978-0856408281
• Cost: RRP. £20 (now £17.99 on Amazon)
• Where to get it: From www.amazon.co.uk

Our verdict

There’s so much in this book, lots of hints and suggestions, and lots of recipes! Perhaps that’s the most logical place to begin..

The range of recipes is very wide and certainly well-chosen: there’s a good selection of world dishes such as Pan-fried Seabass with Puy Lentils or Venison Carpaccio with Pickled Walnuts and Horseradish Creme Fraiche, together with a good number of locally-inspired recipes (we’ve already made the Cashel Blue tart – it’s seriously good).

The success of the “The Yellow Door: Our story, our recipes” lies in this selection, with recipes for every occasion: from robust home-cooking to sophisticated, must-impress dishes, from quick-to-make to more complex affairs. There really is something for everyone in here.

Whether the recipes are more international or local in flavour, the principles of buying local and buying seasonal mentioned at the very start of the cookbook underpin every page. This cookbook is a celebration of what Northern Ireland can produce – the recipe might not call for Glenarm Salmon explicitly, for example, but you just know that Simon was thinking about it when he was writing the recipe for Gravad Lax.

The “Parties” chapter sums this book up perfectly: great recipes, chosen for their ingredients and flavour, but also for how practical they are – they won’t create great drama or stress in the kitchen, but will keep your guests very happy indeed. And just when you think he’s covered it all, Simon throws in the “Useful Information for Parties” section with some great hints for running a great party – which is particularly valuable when it comes from a seasoned outside-caterer.

That’s the thing: “The Yellow Door” cookbook has lots of recipes, and they’re clearly pretty important in a cookbook – but Simon’s philosophy or honesty and value are just as vital.

The strap-line says it perfectly: “A must-have book for anyone who loves food“.

Other information

The Yellow Door – Lisburn
46-48 Market Square,
Lisburn,
County Antrim
Northern Ireland
BT28 1AG
T: 028 92606890

The Yellow Door – Portadown
74, Woodhouse Street,
Portadown,
Co Armagh
BT62 1JL
T: 028 3835 3528

E: info@yellowdoordeli.co.uk
W: www.yellowdoordeli.co.uk
F: The Yellow Door on Facebook

You can also read our review of The Yellow Door, Lisburn here.

Everything but the Squeal by John Barlow

Looking back over our recipes I’ve noticed that we have more and more Spanish-influenced dishes creeping into our repetoire. It’s not surprising, really – Kelly and I regularly visit Spain, although we’ve never been outside of Catalunya. The sights and sounds of places like La Bocqueria in Barcelona, and the delicious treats found in every tapas bar keep us coming back, year after year.

Although the depth of feeling is more pronounced there, the independent streak in many Catalans, the real sense of regional identity, is reflected right across Spain. So, we’re thinking of exploring – and more importantly tasting – the rest of Spain but, like any good scout, I put a lot of faith in the motto “be prepared”.

With this in mind I planned to do a little research and picked up Everything but the Squeal by John Barlow, a strange title to see in the book store’s Travel section!

What’s in the book

The ex-pat author, John Barlow, finds himself in Galicia, a rural and idiosyncratic region in Northern Spain. Living and working there, and married to a Galician, John explores the places, people and practices of his new home: everything from the casual disregard for life from everyone behind a steering wheel, to the joyful disdain for rules and regulations of any kind.

The backdrop to his voyage of discovery is the food, though – and in the Galician love of pork, in particular. The strapline “A year of pigging out in Northern Spain” is completely appropriate, as John travels the countryside in an attempt to literally try every part of the pig: real nose to tail eating.

The details

• Title: Everything but the Squeal – A year of pigging out in Northern Spain (paperback)
• Author: John Barlow
• Pages: 320
• Publisher: Summersdale
• ISBN: 978-1840247404
• Cost: RRP. £7.99 (now £6.39 on Amazon)
• Where to get it: From www.amazon.co.uk

Our verdict

The book is certainly well-written, being both entertaining and informative, which isn’t always an easy marriage.

The stories are good and written with a good deal of humour – “Dirty Day in Laza” being my favourite. The pork-challenge is used to weave all of the anecdotes about the oddities of Galician life together into a very readable narrative. It’s not for the squeamish, though – John “tells it like it is”, with plenty of graphic references to butchery and eating which might be a little too much for some delicate stomachs.

I would say that “Everything but the Squeal” is background reading rather than a travel guide – in his search for more and more obscure cuts of pork the author has to drive further and further afield to find the more traditional peasant dishes which use tail/snout/ears (and everything in between), which the average traveller just can’t/won’t have to undergo. Travelling to these remote spots and braving weather which is more like our own cold and rain-swept climate than anything you’ll find elsewhere in Spain, you could say that the author “went the whole hog” to research this book!

Whether it’s intended or not, I couldn’t help comparing our food culture to theirs, and it left me feeling more than a little envious. Would I like to be able to track down little places which still prepare traditional dishes like Crubeens (pigs’ trotters), Dublin Coddle, or home-made Black Puddings? Certainly, but not with the relative ease with which the author seemed to find the equivalent in Spain, I fear.

There are some minor issues: the writing does become a little wordy and loses some focus at points; and, even though the author is English, he has an annoying habit of speaking to an American audience exclusively, which grates a little. That said, there’s nothing that’ll prevent you from thoroughly enjoying the book.

John paints a very endearing picture of his adopted home, and really does manage to make you feel like you know the people and the region. Rustic, independent, and eccentric, Galicia is still mysterious, an unknown quantity for us – but one I want to explore.

Are there direct flights from Belfast?

Other information

You can see the photos that John Barlow took while researching the book on Flickr.

Pasta by Theo Randall

Just looking back through our recipe-list it’s pretty obvious that Italian cuisine is a big favourite of ours. I think I’ve bought most of what Antonio Carluccio, Giorgio Locatelli, and Elizabeth David have written on the subject.

So it says a lot about Theo Randall’s abilities that we became such huge fans of his so quickly. I can’t quite remember the point at which we became converts, but it’s probably the first time we came across him on “Market Kitchen”. Despite regular appearances in fron tof the camera he still seems quite reserved and even shy on camera, unusual in these days of flamboyant and out-spoken TV chefs, and allows his cooking to command the viewer’s attention (a cookery programme about cooking!?! What next?!).

Theo’s recipes and cooking-style smack of authenticity, a no-nonsense approach that focuses on flavour and practicality rather that fussy chef-y flourishes, and a clear love of all things Italian. It sounds strange to say it but his recipes actually made me excited about getting back into the kitchen to try them out – I don’t think I’ve been able to say that before!

Needless to say there was a certain degree of expectation in our house when Theo Randall’s cookbook “Pasta” was published – the book really did have a lot to live up to..

What’s in the book

After a short two-page introduction to Theo Randall and his love of pasta, the book takes a quick look at fresh and dried pasta: how to make it, how to cook it, how to serve it, and how to eat it. It’s a logical start to a book about pasta, particularly when we don’t really know that much about the subject in the chilly British Isles. The tone is nice and breezy and makes easy reading, with just a slight slap on the wrist for our habit of plating up mountains of pasta for our main courses rather than a starter-sized portion, all’italiana.

Suitably chastised, we’re taken without further ado to the recipes. There are 110 of them which are divided into ingredient-based sections: Tomatoes, Vegetables, Fungi, Fish, Seafood, Meat, Poultry and Game, and Cheese.

There is a world of pasta know-how in this book, and something for everyone, for every kind of mood. If the egg- and cream-based Spaghetti Carbonara is too much for you there’s always Ravioli with Sweet Potato, Fennel and Chilli or Tagliatelle with Creme Fraiche, Parmesan and Asparagus.

The photos deserve a special mention – they are glossy, high-coloured, and well-chosen. Our evening meal has been decided by these loving close-ups even more than the recipes themselves on more than one occasion.

Details

• Title: Pasta (hardback)
• Author: Theo Randall
• Pages: 224
• Publisher: Ebury Press
• ISBN: 978-0091929008
• Cost: RRP. £18.99 (now £10.96 on Amazon)
• Where to get it: From www.amazon.co.uk

Our verdict

Pasta by Theo Randall has immediately become a treasured book in our house.

The range of recipes is impressive and the photos even more so. I’ve cooked three of these recipes so far and each one has been an absolute winner – the wonderful aromas from the kitchen, the delicious flavour of the food, the contented sounds of a meal much-enjoyed.. “Pasta” delivers all of these things.

If you even think that you might enjoy an Italian dish some night or have even a fleeting interest in Italian food, buy the book.

Other information

After 10 years as head chef at the acclaimed Italian restaurant “River Café”, Theo opened “Theo Randall at The InterContinental” in 2006. He continues to cook seasonal Italian food here to this day.

You can find out more about Theo Randall and his restaurant by visiting: www.theorandall.com.

Jamie Does.. Spain, Italy, Sweden, Morocco, Greece and France book cover

After weeks (and several small forests worth) of election pamphlets being forced through our letterbox, Kelly and I have stopped running to the door each time we hear another sheaf of paper being delivered. Pointedly ignoring the front-door for several hours, it was a nice surprise to find that Jamie Oliver’s new book “Jamie Does..” was sitting there waiting for us.

Narrowly avoiding lower back damage (it’s a whopping 360 pages – remember, lift with your knees) we sat down and took a look.

What’s in the book

Published to complement the “Jamie Does..” series on Channel 4, the book is a culinary tour of Spain, Italy, Sweden, Morocco, Greece and France. The recipes come thick and fast – Jamie’s versions of classic recipes from the regions and countries that he’s visited – from Moorish Pork Chops to Greek Lamb Fricasse to Spaghetti Vongole.

Jamie is a bit over-the-top for me sometimes (too many “pukkas”, “bootifuls”, and “yeah, mans”) but he does make very good television – “Jamie’s Italy” and “School Dinners” are two of the best and best-intentioned programmes I’ve ever watched – and good cookbooks too. They always seem to be perfectly pitched at the home-cook: the recipes are tasty and not too demanding, the dishes range from rustic mid-week family meals to recipes that could be used for a dinner party, and the ingredients can usually be tracked down even here in Northern Ireland. This book is no different, and it’s filled with some of the best food photography I’ve seen – it just makes you want to cook!

Obviously you’re not going to get an in-depth look at the different cuisines here, but “Jamie Does..” is a very good introduction. I really like the “essential ingredients” features where he introduces some of the ingredients that define the cooking in the different countries. The Spanish section, for example, includes pictures and descriptions of jamon, pimenton, green olives and chorizo, while the Swedish ingredients include mustard and dill, salmon and pickled herrings.

I know I didn’t know much about Swedish cooking before, but I’d be tempted to give some of these recipes a go.

Job done Mr. Oliver.

Details

• Title: Jamie Does.. Spain, Italy, Sweden, Morocco, Greece and France (hardback)
• Author: Jamie Oliver
• Pages: 360
• Publisher: Michael Joseph
• ISBN: 978-0718156145
• Cost: RRP. £26 (now £10.49 on Amazon)
• Where to get it: From www.amazon.co.uk

Our Verdict:

You should buy it.

The recipes are good, the book gives you an easy introduction to some very diverse cuisines, and the photography will make your mouth water.

Useful as a cookbook, and wouldn’t look out-of-place on your coffee table.

Other information

You can find out more about the author by visiting the Jamie Oliver website.

Willie's Chocolate Factory Cookbook

Willie Harcourt-Cooze is an eccentric entrepreneur, the star of the Channel 4 series Willie’s Wonky Chocolate Factory, and on a mission to teach a nation of chocoholics how wonderful real chocolate can be.

Twelve years ago, Willie and his wife Tania sold everything they had to buy a cacao farm in the Cloud Mountains of Venezuela. Recently Willie and his family have returned from the rain forest where Willie learned how to grow, harvest, and process their own cacao beans, to the hills of Devon, building a small chocolate factory to makes his 100% cacao bars.

Willie’s Chocolate Factory Cookbook is in two parts: The first half of the book is an autobiography and tells the story behind his goal to produce the very best chocolate in the world; the second part has a range of recipes that use his cacao as an ingredient.

What’s in the book?

The autobiography

The first half of the book is all about his upbringing and the trials and tribulations of producing his chocolate bars.

His parents lived a very alternative lifestyle and believed in self-sufficiency long before it became the trendy thing to do. Much of his childhood was spent on a small island in the South-West of Ireland where he learned to salt fish, make cheese and youghurt, and to pickle fruit. When he grew up he knew that he wanted to follow this lifestyle.

So, when he was shown a cacao farm on his travels through Asia and South America, he knew he had found his calling and managed to buy the farm. And it was here that his real struggles began – to introduce a high-cacao chocolate bar to the British market.

The recipes

We’ve grown up to think that chocolate is a treat, and a sweet one at that, when in actual fact the real thing is a very versatile ingredient used in both savoury and sweet dishes. Overcoming this conditioning takes some doing, and some of the recipes don’t appear to be that exotic or worthwhile at first glance.

The cacao bars have been difficult to get in the past but we persevered and managed to make a few of the recipes in the cookbook.

Like salt or pepper, just a small amount of Willie’s 100% cacao can enrichen the flavours in food, adding depth and body. Willie’s recipes show how the ingredient can be used in a wide range of dishes, from Tiramisu and Venezuelan Hot Chocolate to Chicken Mole and Porcini, Gazpacho soup, and Chocolate Risotto.

You do have to remind yourself that the cacao isn’t chocolate-y, so there won’t be that distinctive flavour that you’re expecting. But it’s great stuff all the same.

Details

• Title: Willie’s Chocolate Factory Cookbook (hardback)
• Author: Willie Harcourt-Cooze
• Pages: 224
• Publisher: Hodder & Stoughton
• ISBN: 978-0340980514
• Cost: RRP. £20 (now £12.87 on Amazon)
• Where to get it: From www.amazon.co.uk

Our Verdict:

Kelly and I loved the TV series – it was really compelling viewing, and through all of the set-backs and struggles we were rooting for Willie and his family to pull through.

Although you don’t have to have seen the series it did whet our appetite for the cookbook and we were both looking forward to some amazing recipes.

As far as the cookbook goes, while I think that it’s a very interesting read, the book itself isn’t really worth the price-tag.

The autobiography makes up half the book, is “read-once-never-read-again” in the way of most autobiographies, and was essentially already covered in the TV series.

Which leaves the recipes: the best of these are traditional South American dishes and you can easily find the recipes online with a little effort.

In short, I’m glad I had the chance to read Willie’s story again, but I haven’t picked up the book since.

Other information:

It has been difficult to get Willie’s chocolate in the past – but the good news is that Co Couture on Chichester Street in Belfast are now stocking them!

You can also buy the cacao on Willie Harcourt-Cooze’s website: www.williescacao.com.

Leon - Ingredients and Recipes

“Leon” was founded by Allegra McEvedy,Henry Dimbleby, and John Vincent, and voted the “Best New Restaurant” by judges Rick Stein, Gordon Ramsay, Nigel Slater, Heston Blumenthal and Jay Rayner in the 2005 Observer food awards.

The restaurant, now part of a 9-strong chain of London-based eateries, was created to provide customers with fast-food that looked good, tasted good, and made you feel good.

The Leon: Ingredients and Recipes book attempts to bring this philosophy into your home, to make it part of your day-to-day lifestyle.

This book has two separate elements: the first half of the book looks at selecting the right ingredients; and the second half lists the recipes that make use of your carefully chosen ingredients.

The Ingredients Book:

“The Ingredients Book” is great, being detailed enough to give you everything you need to choose the best possible ingredients without being boring or preachy. The sections include:

• Fruit
• Herbs
• Vegetables
• Dairy
• Fish and Shellfish
• Meat and Poultry
• Stores (which includes things like flour, oils, pasta, rice, salt, and spices)

It’s a great reference: in the “spuds” section, for example, you get pictures of some of the different potato types, information about the distinct flavours, and how best to cook the various types; with other vegetables, you’re told which vitamins occur in which veg; the “beef” section shows you the different cuts and the relative merits of these cuts – from the fillet to brisket to oxtail.

What I particularly like is that everything is approached from this “good for you, good for everyone” perspective – so “organic”, “free-range” and “sustainable” are all terms that you will see. There is a great “open-out” section on page 90 that tells you everything you need to know about chickens, for instance – what all the different parts of the bird could be used for, the difference between intensive-, free-range-, and organic-farming, and which type of chicken to choose for your recipe.

There is also a pull-out guide, a wheel of ingredients in their seasons, and tips for buying the best ingredients in the appendix.

The Recipe Book:

“The Recipe Book” has over 140 recipes, and helps you put those ingredients to use.

Many of the recipes are from the menus of the Leon restaurants, while others have been contributed by friends and family, and they all sound delicious:

• Chicken, asparagus and lemon cassoulet
• Ham hock, savoy cabbage, and rosemary soup
• Moroccan meatballs
• Butterbean and chorizo tapa
• Leon Better Brownie
• Gooseberry and elderflower fool
• Leon Better Brownies

The recipes have been selected so that there’s nothing that’s too high on the glycaemic index – leaving you feeling satisfied for hours after you’ve eaten, rather than needing a sleep.

This isn’t a health-food book – if it was, I don’t think it would have made it through our front door! – but it does have your health at heart. The Leon philosophy is one based on balance – cook and eat with the best ingredients available and have a little bit of what you like for a healthy, fully-rounded life, or “the right to treat yourself without guilt” as the book says.

Details

• Title: Leon: Ingredients and Recipes (hardback)
• Author: Allegra McEvedy
• Pages: 295
• Publisher: Conran-Octopus
• ISBN: 978-1-84091-502-0
• Cost: £20
• Where to get it: From www.amazon.co.uk

Our Verdict:

This book has everything I like in a cookery book – there’s plenty of personality and quirkiness, without taking anything away from the food.

There’s a lot going on, but it’s really well organised – some nutritional facts about your ingredients, lots of interesting and varied recipes, and plenty of miscellany held in pull-outs, open-outs, and so on to keep you interested.

The fact that there is also a strong “healthy” undercurrent is hardly noticeable – but it’s also reassuring that it’s there. If you’re cooking for your family, it’s an important aspect, and one that isn’t part of many other cookbooks.

This is a fantastic book to have – not for the bookshelf – it should be on your kitchen table.

The River Cottage Family Cookbook

“This is a cookbook for everyone in the family to pick up and use.”

The River Cottage Family Cookbook is exactly that – a cookbook that everyone in the family can use – a how-to guide for good cooking. More than that though, the recipes are perfect day-to-day eating, having a heavy emphasis on good food and healthy, satisfying rustic grub. No fancy or sophisticated dishes here, just good staple dishes that are good to have in your repetoire.

The book is broken down into clearly defined sections: Flour; Eggs; Fruit; Vegetables; Fish; Meat; and so on. Each chapter comes will useful insights and recommendations, as well as a selection of reliable recipes intended for frequent use, such as:

• Creamy fish pie
• Spaghetti Carbonara
• Chicken Curry
• Roast Chicken
• Eggy Bread
• Custard ice-cream
• Gooseberry Crumble
• Your own ice-lollies

Another theme in the book is getting your kids into the kitchen and getting them involved in cooking. The recipes are designed so that 10 to 12 year olds can make them, with help – while older children should be able to make most of the dishes on their own.

The recipes aren’t just a list of ingredients either, but give the reader a full explanation of how and why things are done. The cookbook is well worth getting for this reason alone – inexperienced and/or young cooks can learn a lot, and there are plenty of photos throughout the book for reference.

The book also comes with lots of useful extras – I particularly like the step-by-step projects and how-tos:

• Make your own sausages
• Experimenting with steak
• Building a campfire for outdoor cooking
• How to make bread
• Making your own pasta
• Growing tomatoes

Details

• Title: The River Cottage Family Cookbook (hardback)
• Author: Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall & Fizz Carr
• Pages: 415
• Publisher: Hodder & Stoughton
• ISBN: 0-340-82636-3
• Cost: £20
• Where to get it: From www.amazon.co.uk

Our Verdict:

The River Cottage Family Cookbook manages to be both a cookbook for the inexperienced and a way to involve children in cooking – and succeeds in both areas without patronising either group.

A great resource for everyone – and a useful source of inspiration for feeding the family. Highly recommended.

Other Information:

You can read more about River Cottage at: www.rivercottage.net

Les Halles Cookbook

Les Halles Cookbook begins by saying that it’s not really a cookbook – not very helpful then, you might think!

Although the book DOES contain plenty fine recipes, it’s much more than that – it’s also an insight into the dark world of running a professional kitchen, and a French bistro in particular. And it’s an excellent read at that. I find that lot of recipe-books are dry instruction-books – but Bourdain’s dark-humour pervades this book with asides, anecdotes, and observations (“if you can’t properly roast a damn chicken then you are one helpless, hopeless bivalve in an apron”). Mild abuse aside, Bourdain clearly enjoys the hectic, stressful life of a New York chef, leading his team into battle at the bistro every night – and in Les Halles Cookbook Bourdain treats you as if you’re in the same fight, his latest recruit.

Like every drill-sergeant from every war movie I’ve ever seen, Anthony Bourdain takes his new recruit through basic training before getting into the ‘fight’ proper. Although told from the perspective of his own bistro kitchen, this basic knowledge is just as important to the amateur cook: the importance of preparation; knowing which ingredients are in-season; how to find a good supplier; the types of knives you’ll need to work properly; and how vital a good stock is.

You won’t find any of those ethereal, delicate, haute-cuisine-type dishes in this book – but what you will get are plenty of good rustic, satisfying and flavoursome classic French meals: onion soup; vichyssoise; moules marinieres; rillettes; coquilles saint-jacques; boeuf bourguignon; coq au vin; cassoulet; boudin noir with potatoes; rabbit with olives; creme brulee; and cherry clafoutis. There’s also a section on preparing basic components like pastry dough, bearnaise sauce, and sauce gribiche.

Details

• Title: Les Halles Cookbook
• Author: Anthony Bourdain
• Pages: 304
• Publisher: Bloomsbury Publishing
• ISBN: 0-7475-8012-X
• Cost: £15.99
• Where to get it: From www.amazon.co.uk

Our Verdict:

Les Halles Cookbook isn’t an everyday cookbook – but it is a very enjoyable read, a “no-holds-barred” look at the realities of life as a professional chef, and a fantastic resource for hearty, satisfying French dishes. Not a “must have”, but a “should have”.

Rating: 4 out of 5

Other Information:

You can visit the Les Halles website at: www.leshalles.net